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An Ancient Tuscan Village, Like Italy, Is Reshaped by Migration

The three-story school building hasn’t changed much. The blackboards still hang against the ochre-colored classroom wall. Even the morning ritual is familiar: Two students walk through the rows of tiny desks to collect the exercise books, which are still stacked inside in the same storage closet used during the late 1980s, when I was a primary school student in Castellina in Chianti.